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Batura Sar

Batura Sar

Batura Sar recognized as the 25th highest mountain of the world, it is also identified as Batura, Batura 1and even as Batura 1East. In Pakistan, it is documented as the 10th mountain.  It is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subordinate array of the Karakoram Range. It shapes the summit of the Batura Wall that is the continuous elevated part of the back of the Batura Muztagh. Between the Batura Muztagh exists Batura Sar and Batura Wall. On the southwest, west, and northwest sides of the Batura Muztagh the river curves around. Consecutively, the Hunza Valley is situated in the Gilgit District of the Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.


Batura Sar is also recognized as the most famous peak of the Karakoram Range besides being one of the highest mountain in the world. As this mountain is situated at the northwest end of the Karakoram that’s why no other higher mountain is situated on north or west of it in the world. Batura is a very edge like peak, not a piercing spire. Even though it is just a little higher than nearby Rakaposhi according to the usual figures. As compare to other parts of the Karakoram the climbing in Batur Muztagh begins later, the climbing activity is not seen that much.

In 1954, Matthias Rebitsch a climber has been recorded for being in the icefall area. In 1959, the three Britishers and two German climbers climbed the peak but they were all died in an avalanche. But still few climbers have reached near the summit.  Then later in 1976, the first ascent of the peak was made by the Göppingen Karakoram-Himalaya Expedition, headed by Dr. Alexander Schlee. On 21st May, Hubert Bleicher and Herbert Oberhofer placed their base camp on the Baltar Glacier, below the South Face of the peak and finally reached the summit on June 30.


From the Eastern Baltar Glacier up and over Batokshi Peak the first ascent route was climbed from Batokshi Pass. In 1983, the second ascent of the peak was climbed by Austrian Group who followed the new route that was from the left of the first ascent route. The third or fourth ascent of Batura Sar was held in 1988 by Piotr Mlotecki the Polish-German expedition they utilized the first ascent route but failed to achieve their goal. On the other hand since 1950, there look as if little or no doings on the north side of the mountain has been performed.



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